For Racegun, Freeflow, and ANS e-grips... Version #1 Quote: By pbjosh : It is easy. Everybody can do it, unless you have a Mac. Make sure your gun has air, a barrel plug or bag, and you don’t have any paint in the gun. Download the RIP. You can do it from here RIP Hook up the Grip to your PC or Palm. Turn the RIP to the following settings: Expert Mode ON Close = Open Off Fire Mode ‘Semi-Auto’ To tune the Dwell and Shot it takes paint and time. For the most part, most guns work just fine set to 7 or 8 milliseconds. For tuning perfect Shot and Dwell look here -link- Turn your Open to 35 Turn you Load to 1 Turn your Close to 30 Without making to much noise for your neighbors/parents/wife, keeping the barrel plug/whatever in, and double-checking to make sure there is no paint in the gun (“funny how it creeps in there sometimes” said the one eyed man) or flip the bolt then- Cycle the gun a couple of times to see if it shoots. If the Gun fires just fine you can drop the Open time 5 ms at a time. Till it starts ‘Burping’ If the Gun ‘Burps’ because the sear isn’t connecting, then you raise the Open time. After you play around with these adjustments you will find out how fast your Ram takes to open by the Millisecond. For figuring out how fast your Load is time it depends on your loader. If you feel brave, adjust the times lower. If you Chop, raise the Load. . If your gun has blowback you will need to up the Load. Here is a guideline: For a VL Rev: For the most part runs between a 25-35 ms load. If you have the new paddles and an X-board the Load can be low. For the Ricochet: Load is between 25-35 ms. For the HALO: Only 10 Milliseconds are needed for the most part. If you are scared, run at 15. For the Warp: With a good setup, and maybe the Warp cable, you can run with a 10-millisecond load, like the HALO. For Close timing, set it to be a bit lower than the Open, by 10-20% depending on your setup. Version #2: Quote: By niteHawk: The quick and dirty Racegun setup harware: -Take your cocking rod out. -Unscrew your back block until it just touches the back of the gun when pushed all the way forward (you want the ram to extend fully under pressure) -put in yout cocking rod, and adjust it so that when you manually pull back on your back block, the bolt should clear the breech fully (actually it should go slightly past the point of of opening the breech) and the hammer should _just_ catch the sear. Meaning you will feel the resistance from the spring as you are pulling the block back, you should feel the sear catch just before block will stop moving as you pull. The goal is to have the sear catch as close to the back movement as possible (wel within 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch after) This will keep your sear from skipping over the sear due to your mainspring pushing it over. - Put the gun in clasic mode - Air it up, unscrew your LPR adjuster so that your back block doesn't move. - While holding the trigger adjust your LPR (Rock, Jackhammer, whatever) so that the breech opens all the way and the sear catches.. turn in 1/4 turn past that point, and leave it. - Put it in semi - Set your CTO time to 40 and your CTC time to 40 and your load to 1 (Leave your Dwell and shot at 7 each). - Pull the trigger several times - does it cock and fire each time? - If it cocks, drop your CTO and CTC to 35. If not see below. - Pull the trigger several times - does it still cock and fire every time? - If it cocks, drop your CTO and CTC to 30. If not see below. - Pull the trigger several times - does it still cock and fire every time? - Keep doing this until the gun stops cocking and firing every time. Eventually the gun will stop cocking and firing, it may cock twice in a row, or might move the back block several times without firing, etc.. - You want to drop your times by 5ms each time, until it stops working reliably and at that point, go up by 1 each time until it catches every time, then add ~3 to you CTO (for that extra safe margin), and leave your CTC 3 ms lower than your CTO. **This is true for all the older versions of the Race Cocking soloniod (ProPaintball, ANS, and what's commonly called the "Big" solonoid, and the second generation solonoids) If you have a RaceValve on the front of your gun, you want your close (CTC) time HIGHER than your open (CTO) time to avoid dropoff. Basically the valve is too damn fast for it's own good :-) Rule of thumb is to set CTC about 5ms above CTO, and check for dropoff.. if you are getting any, add another 3ms and try again, etc... - Now you need to find your load time (figure 35ms for a 12v revy, less for a halo or Eggy) essentially you want to keep adding to it until you no longer chop - and you are good to go. If you have an eye - then no worries on your load time, set it to 1, and turn on your eye :-)